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I have lost power to the turbo and the engine management light comes on . I'm getting a reading of fault code p0299 turbocharger under boost and p0047 solenoid A low circuit . Any ideas as to what can help me out would be great , thanks.
 

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Hi I know this is an old post but I tend to look through old posts for tips etc, so I have just had the exact same problem on my 2009 Opel Antara 2.0 CDTi, both codes P0299 and P0047 and distinct lack of power, everyone kept saying I had a split hose or vacuum pipe however I checked all of them and pulled all of the wiring apart checked the connectors all fine.

I was at the stage where I was really banging my head against a wall, anyway I had been on a test drive and I came back and turned off the ignition and there was a strange clicking/ whining noise and I found that this noise would go on for about a minute after turning the ignition off Everytime, so I started to remove everything to trace this noise, once I removed all the turbo pipework and heat shield I found that the noise was in fact the electronic actuator, I checked that the actuator was moving the boost rod and found that it wasn’t, so I drowned it in WD40 and moved it back and forth by hand and sure enough the noise went away! I built the engine back up and finally my car is running as it should, it might have taken me 8 hours to find and fix the fault but I’m happy I have my workhorse back!!
 

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Hi I know this is an old post but I tend to look through old posts for tips etc, so I have just had the exact same problem on my 2009 Opel Antara 2.0 CDTi, both codes P0299 and P0047 and distinct lack of power, everyone kept saying I had a split hose or vacuum pipe however I checked all of them and pulled all of the wiring apart checked the connectors all fine.

I was at the stage where I was really banging my head against a wall, anyway I had been on a test drive and I came back and turned off the ignition and there was a strange clicking/ whining noise and I found that this noise would go on for about a minute after turning the ignition off Everytime, so I started to remove everything to trace this noise, once I removed all the turbo pipework and heat shield I found that the noise was in fact the electronic actuator, I checked that the actuator was moving the boost rod and found that it wasn’t, so I drowned it in WD40 and moved it back and forth by hand and sure enough the noise went away! I built the engine back up and finally my car is running as it should, it might have taken me 8 hours to find and fix the fault but I’m happy I have my workhorse back!!
Hi I'm glad I came across your post . I have the same codes 08 model and I believe the same clicking noise . I recorded it on video I'm hoping it's the same noise as opposed to something else , car had been parked for two months and I never had that error code before . Will try uploading video to see if it's same noise , if so if you could point me in the general area and advise as to what I should be looking at would be great
 

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Hi I also have a 2008 Antara which has developed the dreaded 'clicking' noise with the P0299 and P0047 codes, does anyone know (and can provide me guidance) on where the 'boost rod' Davvyd1 mentioned in his post is? ..... or is it the rod inside the actuator?

Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide on this matter.
 

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Hi I also have a 2008 Antara which has developed the dreaded 'clicking' noise with the P0299 and P0047 codes, does anyone know (and can provide me guidance) on where the 'boost rod' Davvyd1 mentioned in his post is? ..... or is it the rod inside the actuator?

Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide on this matter.
Hi Craig you will need to remove the turbo heat shield . Looking down from above the turbo there is a linkage (metal) connected to a black arm on the right hand side on the turbo. you can just get your hand to it. This rod goes down to the bottom of the actuator ... you cant see this... To access the botom of the rod undo the front pipe 3 nuts and maybe take off the dpf exhaust front rubber mount.. On mine the rod was stuck at both ends so i bent the oil pipe slightly towards the drivers side removed the circlip and pulled the rod off the actuator module. wd40 and a lot of moving around and it was free.. access is v bad but can be done or just go mad with wd40 and hope for the best.
 

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Hi Sparks, thanks for the information. Done as you said, and as you stated, it is a 'b*%ch' to get to. However, using my 'Ultra-expensive' Aldi Inspection Camera to help pinpoint my flexi-WD40 made it easier to direct the spray onto the key components. As I was already in at the Turbo, I also decided to perform a Wynn's Turbo Cleaner task, so I removed the hoses, checked the internal turbo with my 'Ultra-expensive' inspection camera...........gunked.............so then did the internal turbo clean. After both tasks (and reassembly) it was like the Red Bull engine crew had fitted a new engine when I was not looking. As soon as I got out of the drive and started driving I could tell by the 'pull' of the engine that things were much, much better, and sure enough, NO 'Limp-Home' mode and no codes!

Thanks to Sparks and the participants of these forums for spreading their knowledge and helping us all!

Best wishes,

Craig
 

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Hi Craig you will need to remove the turbo heat shield . Looking down from above the turbo there is a linkage (metal) connected to a black arm on the right hand side on the turbo. you can just get your hand to it. This rod goes down to the bottom of the actuator ... you cant see this... To access the botom of the rod undo the front pipe 3 nuts and maybe take off the dpf exhaust front rubber mount.. On mine the rod was stuck at both ends so i bent the oil pipe slightly towards the drivers side removed the circlip and pulled the rod off the actuator module. wd40 and a lot of moving around and it was free.. access is v bad but can be done or just go mad with wd40 and hope for the best.
Hi Sparks, thanks for the information. Done as you said, and as you stated, it is a 'b*%ch' to get to. However, using my 'Ultra-expensive' Aldi Inspection Camera to help pinpoint my flexi-WD40 made it easier to direct the spray onto the key components. As I was already in at the Turbo, I also decided to perform a Wynn's Turbo Cleaner task, so I removed the hoses, checked the internal turbo with my 'Ultra-expensive' inspection camera...........gunked.............so then did the internal turbo clean. After both tasks (and reassembly) it was like the Red Bull engine crew had fitted a new engine when I was not looking. As soon as I got out of the drive and started driving I could tell by the 'pull' of the engine that things were much, much better, and sure enough, NO 'Limp-Home' mode and no codes!

Thanks to Sparks and the participants of these forums for spreading their knowledge and helping us all!

Best wishes,

Craig
 
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