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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,New to this forum, so thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

2012, CDTI, 2.2 (ceverolet engine).

Turn key to start engine, engine turns over a number of times but refuses to start. Sometimes starts on first attempt, but most times takes 4, 5, 6 attempts. Once started runs perfect. No warning lights on the dash and no fault codes found in the memory. Its been doing it for over a month but feels to be getting worse. Took it into a garage for its annual service and mentioned the starting issue. Service completed and still behaves the same. Garage suggested, either, Glow Plugs, EGR or common fuel rail/sensor. Ive checked the glow plugs, wiring and relay....all ok. Removed and cleaned EGR, no issues discovered. Fuel rail sensor on order, but ive disconnected it (to see if it would make a difference to starting), no difference to the starting, but the engine then runs like poo.
Someone mentioned the camsahft position sensor could be on its way out, so disconnected that and again no difference to the starting and it had no effect on the running of the engine.............so i'm now thinking its the cam position sensor (one now on order).
Someone has now mentioned an immobiliser issue.........so i'm now getting a bit frustrated.

Has anyone experienced similar?

Has anyone got any suggestions?

Much appreciated,
Ash
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No natural fault codes reported or logged.
I have forced fault codes when i have disconnected sensors; which ive then cleared.

Last night i hooked up a wireless OBD to an APP on a tablet so that i could read/see the fuel rail pressure............at ignition it = 0psi, when cranking this raises steadily and when it starts reads about 3400 psi; on tickover this value is nearer 5000 psi.

When you switch the ignition to position 1 (lights on dash etc) i can hear the a buzzing (which i am assuming is an electric fuel pump priming the main mechanical fuel pump), for a short period.

Looking forward to everyones input
 

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I don't know how much store I'd put on a phone app reading rail pressures but you should expect about 200 bar cranking, 300 idling and 1800 max. The buzzing is your in-tank pump running to prime the system, it works on a timer; once the engine starts the engine-driven fuel pump takes over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Victor,Yes I agree with your figures, its just that it seems to take a number of cranks (many seconds)to reach the 200Bar (3000psi) value. On other vehicles (volvo/vw) that value is almost instantaneous (within a second of cranking).

I'm now thinking the battery isnt performing as it should. So, i'm going to try 'jumping' it tonight.

Arethere any known issues or procedures involved with jump starting this vehicle / battery type?

Many thanks in advance,
Ash
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you Dulac.

Anyway, bloke at work has exactly the same vehicle so i've just done the same test as above using the OBD and tablet app.

The fuel pressure on his jumps almost immediatly to 3800-4000 psi (275BAR) upon cranking, i.e. in less than a second and then idles around 5000 psi. When ignition is switch off the rail pressure gradually drops off but this takes a number of minutes. Any cranking whilst there is still pressure in the rail means the engine starts even quicker.
Mine, on the other hand, does not hold pressure in the rail and does not immediatly jump to 400 psi during cranking........rather it gradually builds up pressure over a number of cranks.

Will jump start it tonight to rule out (or in) the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so does anyone know if the fuel rail should or should not hold pressure once the engine is turned off?
is there a pressure regulator on the fuel rail? (or is the 'valve' on the fuel pump that controls the pressure). something must tell the rail to dump the pressure to the tank when the engine is switched off.

Thanks
 

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There should be residual pressure in the fuel rail after you switch off, it will gradually decay through the leak-off system. When you switch off there's a number of things happen but primarily the electrical signal to the injectors is switched off by the ECU through the injector driver.

The Antara engine has the choice of two fuel injection pumps
but I haven't had access to the manual for either of them. Some injection pumps
have an electrical solenoid valve to stop the fuel flow when you switch off but
I don't believe that is the case with the Antara. Some of the Denso pumps have
a fuel solenoid cut off - they also control the fuel flow from the transfer
pump to the HP injection pump using suction control valve(s) which are themselves
controlled by the ECU. I'm not sure how the transfer is controlled with the
Antara pump although it makes sense it must be controlled some way otherwise
the pump would operate at full bore all the time which would waste a lot of
power.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you Victor,
Just asI thought re the residual pressure.

Will have a look at the pump set up later this week. I use this (https://7zap.com/en/) siteto determine parts and numbers etc.

Jump starting it appeared to make no difference at all (but maybe my donor battery wasnt providing anything additional).

I'm going to go ahead and change outthe fuel rail pressure sensor for a new one this week and see what difference that makes.

Appreciate your comments/suggestions/advice and info
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update.
Fuel rail pressure sensor changed for a brand new one...........made no difference what so ever to the starting issue, and rail still does not hold residual pressure after turning engine off.

So,I took it into to main dealer to have the battery and starter checked. Turns out the starter cable is almost burnt out (the recall issue that vauxhall had told me had been done on this car....but now appears it wasnt done). Battery appears to be ok. They wouldnt let me take the car home as it was a fire risk. Its been in there a week and still not fixed, expecting it back early next week.

Fingers crossed
 

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There's a lot of confusion over the Antara / Captiva starter recalls.Mines was not on the recall list then it was on the list, I think their record keeping is / was definitely dodgy. Meantime a copy of a post from the Captiva board about the starter and alternator cabling:


 

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Interesting post, reading from the start I assumed Battery, the recall was done on mine and the car is registered sept 2015. I know that there was a backorder for these when I had mine done.If you go to Vauxhall at https://my.vauxhall.co.uk/
You can register the car and join the service club but it will let you see if any recalls are due, also you can view its service history on line which will show work done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The main dealer told me that this model/year wasnt part of the recall, but should vehicles of this model/age be brought in for this issue they would be repaired for free.
Anyway, vehicle returned, repair completed. Now starts lovely and on the button no issues.

My only query is that it still doesnt hold residual pressure in the fuel rail once the engine is switched off; so i may have an underlying issue.

Lets see how things go.

Thank you all for your comments/suggestions and advice.

 

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Following on from this, i have a situation whereby i am unable to get fuel out of the hp pump. Have even changed it with a re-conditioned one, still no joy. Any suggestions where i should be looking next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi, so here i am again.
A few months down the line from when the dealer replaced the starter cable and the vehicle has decided to play up again. Wont start and engine management lights on again. Local garage has now stated that the battery is knackered (so i'm having that replaced) but they are also now saying DPF & EGR is the most likely fault (quoting £4k to replace!!).
What i dont understand is how difficult it seems to be able to pin point the actual fault on these vehicles...........it feels as if these garages just want to replace parts until it is fixed.
arrrgghhh
 

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Hi, so here i am again.
A few months down the line from when the dealer replaced the starter cable and the vehicle has decided to play up again. Wont start and engine management lights on again. Local garage has now stated that the battery is knackered (so i'm having that replaced) but they are also now saying DPF & EGR is the most likely fault (quoting £4k to replace!!).
What i dont understand is how difficult it seems to be able to pin point the actual fault on these vehicles...........it feels as if these garages just want to replace parts until it is fixed.
arrrgghhh
Hello mate i have the same issue what was your solution in the end
 
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