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Hi all,


Just thought I would check if there are any special tools needed to replace my front discs & pads on a 57 Anatara, or if it is just straight forward job.



thanks again
 

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very easy job takes about 10-15 minuets a wheela plummers wrench - for closing the pistons
long flat headed screw driver - to realise the old pads
a socket set
grease - for the new pads only a very small amount on the edges NOT on the front. this helps with even wearing
a wire brush to clean all old bits off around the old
 

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mcugloy said:
very easy job takes about 10-15 minuets a wheela plummers wrench - for closing the pistons
long flat headed screw driver - to realise the old pads
a socket set
grease - for the new pads only a very small amount on the edges NOT on the front. this helps with even wearing
a wire brush to clean all old bits off around the old
Been watching wheeler dealer?
 

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Grease = copper grease ONLY.

Pistons will push back easier if you release the bleed nipple a little; you will need to bleed anyway so have the bleed kit ready to go.
I've always found it easiest to push them back with a screwdriver levered against the pads, which releases the pads at the same time. Pistons must be pushed back square-on, if they're not moving then you're doing something wrong, start over.

Are there anti-squeal shims? Don't assume the originals are the right way round, monkey+spanner: they have to go the right way round; this is where a light smear of copper-ease goes.

Clean everything out. Thoroughly. Examine piston and seals.

If the pad don't fit scrape paint off its sides esp pattern part ones; OEM should fit perfectly; do not penny-pinch on brake parts.

Plumbers wrench = C-jaw gas pliers? - use them agains the pad and cylinder not the piston itself.
Brake cleaner spray.
Fresh brake fluid to bleed with.

For a DIY job at roadside I'd allow 2 hours: it may take 10 minutes just to get the wheel off.
10 min to get the pads out
10 min to get the disc off
20 min to clean everything
5 min to put the disc on
5 min to put the disc on the right way
10 min to insert and align pads.
20 min to reassemble and bleed.
10 min to find the long socket handle to tighten the wheel nuts
30 minutes to clean up.

That's 2 hours of my time and the garage does it far quicker and charges relatively little.
Me, I'm a physicist-engineer not a spanner monkey, been there rebuilt engines you name it done that, boring: I get dermatitis.
 

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Gunsons auto-bleed kit.
Once you release the bleed nipple then brake pistons will push back. Push the old pad back against the piston. That's where the big plumber's water pump pliers (gas pliers) come in. You have to do that anyway to get them out, just remember to push back far enough to get the new pads in.
Cleanliness: do not get any grease on the friction faces, that includes muck off your hands. When it's disassembled, clean everything thoroughly: buy yourself a new toothbrush and sacrifice your old one.
 

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I also have a 57 plate. I did the rear discs and pads last year. I found that the lining on the handbrake shoes was beginning to crumble. I replaced the shoes as well. That was the hardest part. Quite tricky to get the new shoes fitted. The rear brake disc is a combined brake disc and brake drum.
 

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Hello,<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">

<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">I'm after some help, I normally replace my own pads and discs but have never replaced them on a car with an Electronic handbrake.
<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">

<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">Do you know if I need to do anything special to back brakes off? I normally use a piston rewind tool, but unsure if its that simple with the electronic handbrake?

<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">

<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">Thanks in advance.
<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">

<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">regards
<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">

<div style="line-height: 16.7999992370605px;">Mark
 
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