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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks , it's been one thing after another with this car recently . 08 antara s 2.0 cdti. It was parked up for a while because mot had expired I had tried to sell it but people were offering silly money without mot. To cut the saga short I mot d it and was putting it up for sale when the battery light came on . Thought maybe it was battery after lying up but it tests ok . The light goes out on startup and comes on about a minute later , only reading 11.8 and dropping on meter . Checked b pole on altenator and it's reading same as battery so obviously it's not producing anything. I have pulled the plug from the altenator which contains two wires. Am I correct in assuming that one of these carries the wake up signal to the altenator? Given that train of thought ,with ignition on and light meter clipped to neg in battery I should get a light at one of the two wires in plug? Or am I going about it the wrong way? If I'm correct and there is nothing showing on either wire where do I go from here? Picture of plug attached

TIA
Gerry
 

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Hi, wife has just got a 2012 2.2td and alternator is not charging battery, only had the car about a month so very irritating as just out of warranty. Bought a new battery as well and it has discharged that. Both batteries recharge fully on the home battery charger so looking to replace alternator this weekend. Did you have to remove the air box to get to the aux belt and alternator? I can't see it from top down but can see the belt running the AC pump...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, wife has just got a 2012 2.2td and alternator is not charging battery, only had the car about a month so very irritating as just out of warranty. Bought a new battery as well and it has discharged that. Both batteries recharge fully on the home battery charger so looking to replace alternator this weekend. Did you have to remove the air box to get to the aux belt and alternator? I can't see it from top down but can see the belt running the AC pump...
Hi mate I haven't removed it but looking at videos on you tube it's a must. It looks like you might have to remove radiator too, which makes it a pain . It seems that when you remove airbox you can get at the altenator tensioner and the holding bolts but there is no room to actually remove the altenator from the engine bay . There is a video on you tube that made the job easier , by propping the engine with a trolley Jack and removing the engine mounting bolts and jacking the engine up slightly . You might want to look for that. I'm assuming you have tested your wiring ? If not I would do that before anything else .
 

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I've just put a good battery in and driven from breakdown point (#37) to my house (#23). The radiator fan is on full pelt even after turning off ignition and locking the car but the engine can't even be warm so I guess I'll have to look for some break in the fan circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've just put a good battery in and driven from breakdown point (#37) to my house (#23). The radiator fan is on full pelt even after turning off ignition and locking the car but the engine can't even be warm so I guess I'll have to look for some break in the fan circuit.
Looks like you have a bit of testing to do , not sure nowdays , but in older cars the thermostat sometimes stuck and triggered the fan . Not sure how that translates to modern cars .
 

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Managed to get air box out and look at alternator from belt side, no obvious damage or deformity. Can get my hands on both mounting bolts but can't see any electrical connections from top
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Managed to get air box out and look at alternator from belt side, no obvious damage or deformity. Can get my hands on both mounting bolts but can't see any electrical connections from top View attachment 65
The wiring is on top and far side of that view , there is a plug on top with two wires attached plus b pole on the side. Your view will be restricted by pipes
 

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So went into garage and had alternator swap. This morning drove to ASDA and did some shopping, then surprise surprise, car won't start. Assuming new alternator and battery are working as they should, any idea what is sapping the volts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So went into garage and had alternator swap. This morning drove to ASDA and did some shopping, then surprise surprise, car won't start. Assuming new alternator and battery are working as they should, any idea what is sapping the volts?
Bob is it Def not starting because your battery is flat ? Have you checked battery voltage both with car running and switched off?
 

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I will check the voltages but since changing the battery initially solved it I'm guessing it's probably okay? Will check later. Battery light didn't come on so the car thinks the alternator is doing it's job.

The weird thing is that you can drive it somewhere but then when you return to it it won't start (today at ASDA, other day at petrol station, couple of times outside the house), can't think what else would cause that. If it were starter motor or fuel pump I guess there would be other symptoms? Could it be a short circuit or dodgy earth?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I will check the voltages but since changing the battery initially solved it I'm guessing it's probably okay? Will check later. Battery light didn't come on so the car thinks the alternator is doing it's job.

The weird thing is that you can drive it somewhere but then when you return to it it won't start (today at ASDA, other day at petrol station, couple of times outside the house), can't think what else would cause that. If it were starter motor or fuel pump I guess there would be other symptoms? Could it be a short circuit or dodgy earth?
If your battery is ok then your starter might be gone . Starters on the way out will start fine when cold , I've had that recently with a BMW X3 . Started every morning and wouldn't start after being driven . Check voltage mate Screwfix do a tester for £9 . Engine off 12.5 or so engine running 13 plus .
 

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Just thought I'd update this in case it helps anyone in the future - the starter motor was melted inside the casing apparently. I'm sure I saw a thread about a recall of some models due to starter motor wiring issues but mine was not part of the recall so guess it's just something to look out for on these.

Overall it has cost a battery, alternator, and starter motor over the month and a half we've owned it and cost around £700 in repairs and bus tickets to get around without it. No question the worst vehicle I've ever owned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just thought I'd update this in case it helps anyone in the future - the starter motor was melted inside the casing apparently. I'm sure I saw a thread about a recall of some models due to starter motor wiring issues but mine was not part of the recall so guess it's just something to look out for on these.

Overall it has cost a battery, alternator, and starter motor over the month and a half we've owned it and cost around £700 in repairs and bus tickets to get around without it. No question the worst vehicle I've ever owned.
It's unfortunate mate I feel your pain . It's a pity you went down the altenator route first , and surprising the mechanic didn't test it before replacing .
 

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It's unfortunate mate I feel your pain . It's a pity you went down the altenator route first , and surprising the mechanic didn't test it before replacing .
He did test the alternator at the time and said it wasn't charging, so the unnecessary spend was the new battery, which was about £90. I guess maybe the new battery and alternator have it enough juice to fry the starter motor! Only good news is it should now last a while without issue, fingers crossed.
 

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Please , I have the same car with the same problem but was turned down at the dealers and it cost me so dearly. yet Yety cannot diagnose the problem .

Please, where did you have it done
 

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Ours was fixed by the local mechanic not a chain or dealer as we live down the back of beyond :p
There was another guy on here that had trouble with the starter motor solenoid nut that holds one of the cables on; check that nut is clean and tight and making a proper connection. In our case since we had a new starter put on this was properly secured on the new unit. He also mentions an air mass ring that can set off the engine light in the post here Start problem immobiliser/key?
 
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