Can any diesel experts please help, I've read numerous posts here but I'm still stuck. I recently bought my good lady a 2012 Antara 2.2cdti s/s with 63 k and a known oil cooler failure. The car drove fine on and off the trailer and up to the garage but after a week of sitting battery disconnected whilst I got the cooler it wont start and there are no codes. I had the code P0340 but only as a pending which hasnt come back since changing the camshaft sensor.

According to my scanner the fuel rail pressure is good, there are drips of fuel on the leak off side when cranking ( I havent cracked off anything pre injector) , half tank of fuel. Scanner reads 250/300 rpm cranking and 10.5 v, The glow plugs are heating fine too.

The only thing I thought iffy was that the egr valve buzzes loudly when the ignition goes on and keep buzzing for about a minute after I stop cranking. I took it off and cleaned it tho it was pretty clean. With the top electrical part off I can see that it rotates anti clockwise when the ignition goes on. I assume this moves the valve and thought perhaps the excess buzzing was it trying but failing to open. I've tried changing the valve position manually with the electrics connected but still it wont fire. I've even tried easy start but although it coughs briefly it wont run.

Any help would be appreciated as its driving me nuts !!

If you have 2 keys, try the other key, I had a problem with a mondeo once were the vehicle sat with the key in the ignition and battery disconnected, somehow the key got corrupted talking to the ECU.
Worth a try.

Well today I finally got it to start. Primed the engine repeatedly convinced I could hear a woosh/gurgling in the rail. An unhealthy amount of easy start and it spluttered into life. I let it idle, occasional fast idle, for 20 minutes to warm up for coolant flush. During that time it seemed to run perfectly and respond to throttle. Sods law though, immediately after turning it off it wouldnt start again !!! At least I now know its not just a cold starting issue and can rule out a few things. I did try both keys thanks.

complete guess, engine timing. Sorry cant help, no idea.
Richy

Read elsewhere of someone with a similar problem that turned out to be a sticking throttle valve. That might make sense as I believe it closes on shut down so perhaps on cranking again there's a problem and with the charged air in still low it wont open properly but does when its running. I'm going to fire a scope down (rather than the hassle of getting the bend off) to see if it opens ok with the ignition switched on. I've also ordered new fuel filters. Just so frustrating when such a problem suddenly appears. The oil cooler fix had no electrical/fuel/air side effects other than taking out the alternator and engine earth ( 100% earth cleaned and good) I will win this fight ... eventually

Best of luck, I always start my cars with no throttle on tickover, and they start fine. So no sure if its the throttle valve. I once knew a guy who struggled to get his car to start and I think it was a valve timing issue. The belt had slipped a tooth so it would run but not start. I don't think the antara has a belt. Has the engine been rebuilt recently ?
Richy

I don't know much about the cars history but as it drove fine a week ago I would be suprised if its timing. Also when I did get it start it ticked over and reved freely. I got the throttle body/shudder valve off today and its fine, sits wide open for starting. Its actually heavily loaded so looks like it needs electrics to shut it rather than open it. Read that a faulty crank sensor can cause starting issues tho as the scanner reads rpm its probably not that. From what I can, or rather cant see, its hidden below the starter and rear engine mount so a real bitch to get to..

Hi

I remember the old Austin Montego diesels had a common fault starting which was down to the crank sensor. They would run but not start, so you might be onto something. I had a friend who had one with that problem, he diagnosed it from the fault diagnosis in a haynes manual, the connector used to corrode. If the car is a 4x4 2.2 then access to the starter is a problem you have to take the transfer box out. Its not really achievable between a cup of tea. Best of luck, let me know how you get on. PS I put a post on here of how to remove the transfer box if you need to.
Richy

Sorted ... well maybe ! Changed the fuel filters today ( one was well stuck) repeatedly primed the system and convinced myself that the skoosh sound I had been hearing at the filter , and slightly at the fuel rail, had virtually gone. Tried to start it but of course it wouldn't. Next thing was back seats out to check the pipework at the fuel pump, again seemed fine.
I did some software updates on my scanner last night so had another go at getting some detailed live data, but no joy. Only thing I noticed was that rpm took a few seconds to display. Thinking I might well have to do the crank sensor (transaxle out etc !!) and clutching at straws I wondered if the camshaft sensor had any bearing on that so I disconnected it to see if it changed any data.

WOW I could hardly believe it when it started straight away ! Tried it a few times, connected/disconnected and would start but only disconnected. I switched the sensor back to the original but again would only run disconnected.
Now when I first ordered the camshaft sensor, via a major ebay supplier, despite giving my reg number,the wrong one arrived, wrong shape and too long. I got back onto them with VIN this time and was told they didn't have one listed. Back onto ebay and found a few that looked the part including one from the same seller. How many different camshaft sensors can there be for a particular engine I thought ? One with and without start stop perhaps ? So back on the phone and was told that it might well be right but neither it or any sensor was showing for my VIN. I agreed I'd take it without guarantee.

I am now hoping this was my mistake and that going direct to Vauxhall will see me sorted ,,, if not theres something seriously wierd going on in my ECU, Thanks for previous comments, I'll update when I get a chance to go and get one.

Update .... maybe not that simple. Expert advice from another forum ,,,turns out there's only 1 camshaft sensor and I have the right one. The wrong one sent is actually the crankshft sensor. Apaarantly both share a common 5v feed from the ecu so that might be relevant. Looks like I might need to get the transaxle out right enough.