Antara non starter driving me nuts - Page 3 - Vauxhall Antara Forums
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 18th March 2020, 06:14
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Hi Gyislander
I replaced my starter with a brand new one. Now my stop start rarely works,
My starter also appears a very basic piece of kit. I'm certain my car doesn't have the correct battery, appears to small for the box it sits in. On the rare occassion it does work its after the car has been driven several times and just after it has been started --strange.

A new correct battery would probably help.

The starter is just an electric motor with a solenoid bolted on the side which is connected to the battery, so im struggling to understand how that can impact on the stop start circuit. Richy

To me it seems that your two sensors are not syncronised.
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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 19th March 2020, 21:12 Thread Starter
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Richy,they're definatley not in sync, the big question is why ? Why it runs perfectly disconnected is another wonder. I've been getting some guidance from another forum too and a guy who is in the trade and into electronics. His view is that when cranking over something is interfering with the ecu comms and or drawing excessive voltage, since it starts easily on a bump that may point towards the starter circuit. I've found that the alternator is only putting out 13.1v too. Its positive cable is linked via the starter so it could be an electrical fault/draw there. With the alternator disconnected from everything its still a no start which rules it out as drawing excessive power. I know the starter cables can fail/burn out on the Antara too again due to starter voltage issues.

There are 2 different starters for the Antara depending on stop/start or not. I don't know the technical differences between the 2 but I'd guess that fitting the wrong one may have consequences, perhaps thats been done on mine. I have one on order from Germany, 2 weeks delivery but £70 cheaper ! Cars parked up now until it arrives. Hopefully I'll be back in a couple of weeks with a positive outcome.
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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 23rd March 2020, 16:39
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I'm sure you will sort it. I guessing the difference between the starters is just its robustness. I still have my old starter if you want it. still works ok, not sure where you live, i'm in the midlands


Let me know how you get on.
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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 13th April 2020, 18:00 Thread Starter
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Finally got round to fitting the new starter and it made no difference !! It may be time to surrender and just run it and see how it goes.
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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 13th April 2020, 18:52
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Definately seems sensor related. Do you have a photo of where the crank sensor is. Is it by the main pulley. Can you get at this sensor from the front RHS wheel arch, remove the plastic shield. Dropping the transfer box seems a bit extreme.
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 15th April 2020, 10:31 Thread Starter
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The crank sensor is below the starter motor right behind the transfer case, cant even see or touch a bit of it without removing the case. Had to do that anyway to replace the starter. I've ordered a crank sensor as the new one I had ( wrongly sent as a cam sensor) has a different size plug. Two different sensors acoording to with/without stop start. To be honest I dont hold out much hope that it'll make any odds.
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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 17th April 2020, 14:05
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No nor me. You can't get at that side of the engine because the gearbox is in the way.

Below is the sequence I used to remove the transfer box to change the starter, I'm sure you won't need it but its below if it helps. Best of luck though Richy

My process to remove the starter is listed below with some additional comments.


• Removed the battery, fuse box, battery tray and unbolted the rear coolant bottle to improve access to the cable passing around the gearbox. These items are not essential to access the starter but I recommend the battery is disconnected, also you need to remove the battery tray to refill the gearbox oil on the 4x4 derivative. 4 bolts secure the battery tray, I understand on 2wd the tray is welded in situ (edited)
• Jack up the whole vehicle and place on axle stands, I used 4 stands to lift the whole car. You need to ensure the car is safely supported as you will be working underneath.
• Remove the engine under shield.
• Drain the gearbox and transfer box oils, as the car was on my drive I didn't want any major oil spills, this proved essential in my case. I did this later in my process and wished I had done earlier.
• Remove the 4 bolts securing the underside chassis brace. needed to remove the exhaust.
• Remove the exhaust, 3 bolts at the engine. I removed the whole exhaust as the centre bolts were badly corroded, just pop off the rubber mountings.
• Remove the prop shaft, don't hang the prop shaft on the front universal joint as it can be damaged.
• Under the bonnet loosen the 3 nuts to the RHS front suspension strut approx 5mm, no not remove them, ensure they are still wound onto the threads.
• Remove the front RHS wheel, remove the strut cable bracket, remove the two nuts at the bottom of the strut and knock them out whilst supporting the hub, under the car knock the drive shaft off the RHS transfer box splines. I left one bolt in the bottom strut hole to the top hub hole to support the hub.
• Remove the transfer box support bracket by the RHS front wheel where the drive shaft is located. 5 bolts.
• Remove the rear engine mounting bolt above and behind the transfer box. I found I didn't need to re-support the engine but check before you remove this bolt, good idea to support the engine whilst this bolt is removed then gradually remove the support checking the engine is supported by the front and rear engine mountings.
• Remove the two bottom transfer box bolts to the gearbox.
• Remove the rear mounting bracket bolts 3 are M12, 2 are M10. One is bolted into the engine, the others are either through or into the transfer box. I found it easier to access 4 of the bolts from the RHS removed front wheel and the engine bolt underneath. Mark where the bolts came from as they are all different, The engine bolt is inside the bracket and difficult to access. Bolts are either 15mm or 18mm heads.
• With the mounting bracket loose to need to lift the mounting bracket clear of the top of the transfer box, this is awkward, you need to flex the harness cable above slightly to create clearance.
• With the bracket clear you can slide the transfer box towards the RHS front wheel to clear the gear box then lower out of the car. Beware you get oil spillage and at this point you realise what a good idea it was to drain the transfer and gear box oils.
• The starter motor bolts and power connectors can now be accessed.
• Reassembly is the reverse taking the following into account.
1. The manual recommends replacing the O Ring on the transfer box to gearbox shaft, this was available from Vauxhall approx £7.
2. The manual recommends the mounting bracket bolts are torqued to 90NM, I did this and stripped the M10 thread into the top gearbox mounting, requiring a helicoil repair, so be careful the manual can be misleading. This did my bolts to the following torques, guided by the manual. At your own risk, please consider this is my opinion only.
• M12 Main rear rubber mounting bolt 90nm
• M12 lower 2 bolts to mounting bracket 90nm
• M12 upper single bolt to mounting bracket 75nm
• Two M12 lower transfer box bolts 75NM (underside of transfer box)
• M10 Bracket Engine bolt and top transfer box to bracket bolt 60nm
• M10 5 bolts to transfer box support bracket by the RHS front wheel 60nm
• Rear prop shaft bolts 50nm, centre and front prop shaft bolts 25nm
3. When rebuilding I did all the main transfer box and mounting bracket bolts up lightly before finally torquing up.
4. Its a good idea to grease the engine undershield bolts before you put them back in, it stops them corroding.
5. I used EP75-90 gearbox oil for both gearbox and transfer box. I put 2.4 litres of oil in the gearbox and fill the transfer box to the fill plug (approx 0.8 litres).
6. I needed to replace the gasket on the exhaust flexible connection.
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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 17th April 2020, 22:09 Thread Starter
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Thanks Richy, wasn't actually as complicated as that for me. I took off the f/o/s wheel, undid the 2 strut to hub bolts and that allowed me to get the driveshaft clear. Chassis brace, exhaust and prop off. Transfer case brackets and bolts as you say but didn't drain any oils. I didn't touch the battery tray area either although that meant getting the top starter bolt out was a real bitch. Some of the bracket bolts are well hidden too ! Plugged the transfer box and only lost a few spoonfuls of oil.


I'll put the new crank sensor in when it arrives since its now accesible then look at the options for whats next. Plenty time on my hands just now so maybe not admit defeat yet.
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 20th April 2020, 08:01
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In the back of my mind I still have a hunch you have a timing issue in the engine, hope i'm wrong. I'm struggling to understand why when you disconnect a sensor the engine runs. just cannot get my head around this. Furthermore somebody has taken this engine apart, could it of been reassembled incorrectly ?. I clearly have no where near the understanding you have on this and serious praise for the levels you have gone to to find the fault. Its just such an unusual problem. Richy
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 28th April 2020, 18:18 Thread Starter
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New crankshaft sensor arrived today but as expected it made no odds. Time to move onto timing I think.
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