Antara non starter driving me nuts - Page 2 - Vauxhall Antara Forums
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 7th March 2020, 04:19
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Hi
If it runs with the camshaft sensor disconnected, why do you suspect the crankshaft sensor ?

Surely if the crankshaft sensor was faulty it would not run but with the camshaft sensor disconnected it does.

Am I missing something here, will the engine run on one or the other ?
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 7th March 2020, 19:56 Thread Starter
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My suspicion was based on there being a link between the 2, I know they share the same supply line and the ecu supposedly needs to cross reference the signal from each to run properly. Probably unlikely as the scanner shows rpm and clutching at straws but I have a new crankshaft sensor anyway and God knows the inner workings of an ecu !. I did some more testing which was confusing. The camshaft sensor is a hall effect pull up and when back pinned and tested it seems to be working as it should. What doesn't seem right tho is that with the sensor disconnected and testing at the plug I'm getting a good earth and 5v supply, but also 5v on the signal wire. Where that 5v is coming from is a mystery. My first thought is to cut the wire near the ecu and if there's 5v on the cut side I have a problemin the loom but if its 5v on the ecu side I have a problem internally.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 9th March 2020, 07:29
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I wouldn't go cutting wiring harnesses, sounds a little extreme. Could you not do a visual inspection.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 9th March 2020, 09:40
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Diesel will not start

We are in the same boat and my Antara has not been starting right for 1 year. I find no experts on this web site proposing fixes. First the car would progessively not start and idle, starting hot is my only problem now. I changed the high pressure fuel pump after bad Vauxhall dealers advice. This is my horrible story.
First problem progressively would no start cold.
Second problem would not idle
Third problem would not start hot without a ton of throttle.
Vauxhall dealers told me it was the high pressure fuel pump or injectors. EGR was fine. I changed the pump at a cost of 720 pounds only to discover the fuel filters under the car were caked with goo. Once changed it starts cold and idles well but wont start hot.
Items first and second resolved but not third.
No codes other them P200A all the time which has no impact because the manifold flaps only open above 2,000rpm. They are always closed for starting being moved by engine vacuum.
The strangest thing is if I shut the car off hot and don't remote lock the door the engine starts hot. If the door is locked and unlocked with the remote it does not start. The remote has a coiled that gets it power from the steering column. I wonder if the ECU does not see the remote working or disables the starting. My Antara has some of the best mechanics baffled due to no codes we are all lost.








Quote:
Originally Posted by Gyislander View Post
Can any diesel experts please help, I've read numerous posts here but I'm still stuck. I recently bought my good lady a 2012 Antara 2.2cdti s/s with 63 k and a known oil cooler failure. The car drove fine on and off the trailer and up to the garage but after a week of sitting battery disconnected whilst I got the cooler it wont start and there are no codes. I had the code P0340 but only as a pending which hasnt come back since changing the camshaft sensor.

According to my scanner the fuel rail pressure is good, there are drips of fuel on the leak off side when cranking ( I havent cracked off anything pre injector) , half tank of fuel. Scanner reads 250/300 rpm cranking and 10.5 v, The glow plugs are heating fine too.

The only thing I thought iffy was that the egr valve buzzes loudly when the ignition goes on and keep buzzing for about a minute after I stop cranking. I took it off and cleaned it tho it was pretty clean. With the top electrical part off I can see that it rotates anti clockwise when the ignition goes on. I assume this moves the valve and thought perhaps the excess buzzing was it trying but failing to open. I've tried changing the valve position manually with the electrics connected but still it wont fire. I've even tried easy start but although it coughs briefly it wont run.

Any help would be appreciated as its driving me nuts !!
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 9th March 2020, 22:45 Thread Starter
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ACEPA, I've messaged you.
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 11th March 2020, 10:36 Thread Starter
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Here's a wee update. I was educated that although the cam sensor is a pull up, it signals by then being pulled down to earth and therefore the 5v I was getting at the plug was correct. All a bit confusing for me but every day's a school day. So I then checked the operation of the sensor circuitry by marking the crank pully into 16ths and turning the engine by hand with the ignition on. This showed that the changes on the signal wire between 5v and 0v were consistent and in accordance with the cut outs on the end of the camshaft. The car still starts with the sensor disconnected and keeps running if its plugged back in. Won't restart again if plugged in. If the sensor is removed from the cam cover and still plugged in it will start. Idles smoothly tho at 1050 rpm.


These tests suggest that either the timing is very slightly out ( Richy's early thoughts) or less likely, the crank sensor signal isn't reliable and matching the cam signal as required. As I bought the car spares or repairs I'm wondering if this fault was also known and the cam sensor not fully clicked in so it would still start for loading. The car does appear to have had some engine work done before so it maybe possible its been put back together with the timing off.


Who ever designed the car is a joker as to get to the cam timing marks requires removal of the fuel injectors and cam cover. To get to the crank timing adds removing the aux belt and tensioner,crank pulley, engine mount, sump, oil filter adapterplate and front engine cover ! Just getting to the crank sensor involves driveshaft and transfer box removal !


Injector seals and cover gaskets on order. I'll update again next week.

Last edited by Gyislander; 11th March 2020 at 10:44.
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 12th March 2020, 06:11
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Hi Gyislander
Great feedback, your level of knowledge on this is top drawer and I applaud your efforts in getting this going.

On my earlier post I asked has the engine been rebuilt and it now appears that perhaps it has. People don't normally have these issues so this appears to be some kind of fundamental problem. Do you think the engine has been out or has just the top been rebuilt. If the engine hasn't been out of the car then perhaps they have had the head off. I'm wondering what could of been put back wrong. If it was top only then perhaps they have not touched the crank sensor and its ok. I think you need to dig a little deeper. Richy
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 12th March 2020, 10:02 Thread Starter
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Richy ,its certainly had work done, it looks like the sump has been out and the turbo shield off ( propshaft off and the transaxle looks to have breaker yard markings on it too). Not sure about the head though I wonder if perhaps someone has mis-diagnosed the oil in coolant and set about the head gasket. I'd have thought that someone with that mechanical confidence/know how wouldn't **** up simple timing marks. The amount of work to get to the crank timing marks is a real pain but I guess necessary as even if the cam marks are out I can't assume the crank is fine. If they are out I might try straws down the injector holes to establish tdc but not sure how accurately that can be done yet. How easily or not the injectors come out may be an indication of recent work.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 14th March 2020, 08:45
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I was wondering if the cam chain could be 1 tooth out
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 17th March 2020, 20:26 Thread Starter
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More testing today and more confusing results. I'd read somewhere (read that much recently) about a dodgy starter causing electrical issues despite cranking fine so today I started the car, sensor unplugged, plugged it back in and it pulled like a train up the big hill beside me. Switched off and as usual cranked but wouldn't restart. Easily bump started a few times (sensor plugged in).
Very confusing that the car runs really well whether the sensor is plugged in or not and doesn't bring on the eml.
Interestingly the stop/start isn't working which I guess could also point to something wrong in the starter circuit.
Certainly nothing to suggest now that this epic issue is a timing one.
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